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Monday, December 3, 2012

French Couture Evening (Day 2) - Atelier Gustavolins

“Women’s collections that are a bit masculine are always the most beautiful! This collection is a mixture of columns and volutes.” “The cut of a suit is the basis of my craft,” Gustavolins explains, “and as I’m more of a geometricist than a mere draughtsman, I never lose sight of this.”

It’s the build and construction of the sleeves that interests him, but he reinvents his highly architectural cut, allowing it to spiral or slip at the back. Each collection begins with a suit, which tries to be unrecognisable as such. The trousers come from the male wardrobe but are feminised. They are blocked between the muscle at the small of the back and the top of the buttocks : “That’s the crucial area!”